01 · Watts start it, watt-hours run it
Two numbers, both matter. Watts (W) decides whether it can turn the thing on — a fridge compressor pulls a big surge on startup. Watt-hours (Wh) decides how long it lasts after that. A 288Wh/600W unit will never start a fridge, no matter how long you leave it.
02 · This is the anti-idling math
Idling burns roughly a gallon an hour, and a growing list of states and cities fine you for it. Run the numbers on your own fuel price and your own break length before you decide a $500 battery is expensive — for a lot of drivers it is a fuel purchase, not a gear purchase.
03 · CPAP drivers, size for the full night
If you run a CPAP, this is not an accessory. Check the actual draw on your machine's label — humidifier and heated hose multiply it, sometimes by three or four times. Size for the whole sleep period with margin, and keep a second way to charge.
04 · LiFePO4 over standard lithium
Most picks here use LiFePO4 cells: thousands of charge cycles instead of hundreds, and far better heat tolerance. A cab in July is a brutal environment for a battery, and that chemistry is the one that survives it.
05 · ⚠️ Not a replacement for a proper APU
A power station runs your gear. It does not run your bunk heater or air conditioning for a full night in real weather. If climate control is the problem you are solving, you want an APU, not a battery — be clear which one you're buying.